At Home Dermaplaning!

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So by now you may or may not have heard of dermaplaning as the hot new facial service available to the stars…

For those of you who haven’t heard about it, here’s the skinny: dermaplaning is a service that consists of a skilled professional gently scraping a scalpel across the surface layer of the skin to physically exfoliate and also remove baby peach fuzz hairs to produce a super smooth effect and increase the power of skin treatments applied afterwards.

Generally speaking it’s not usually safe to tae an unguarded blade to your own skin as it can be difficult to gauge pressure and it would be awful to end up with a scar instead of fresh skin.

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Well, for those of us out here who don’t want to spend a million dollars on facial treatments at a spa, I’m here to offer another option: guarded brow shaping razors for at home dermaplaning.

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These are absolutely amazing in general and I use them for my brow shaping because my skin doesn’t do well with facial waxing. But the real awesome sauce about them is that they have a really sharp blade and they also have a micro guard on them that helps prevent the likelihood of cutting yourself accidentally.

After reading about dermaplaning and doing some research I decided to give it a whirl myself. The major benefit for me has been how much better my skin care products seem to be working. By using a technique like this to physically remove the surface layer of dead cells and make-up residue that seems to never come off fully under usual circumstances it really does promote better absorption of masks and moisturizers.

It’s typically not necessary to do an extreme exfoliation technique like this every day. I suggest trying it once a week, or even once a month if you have sensitive skin. My skin is pretty hardy so I usually do this once a week, sometimes twice a week if I’ve been doing a lot of modeling shoots and classes and been wearing more make-up than I prefer. It makes me feel so much cleaner to be able to get my skin under control.

This is a truly fabulous new addition to my skin care routine and I totally suggest it to anyone interested, just be careful not to shave off an eyebrow!

 

Why I Love Top Pieces

Some call them wiglets, mono-tops, toppers, closures, full tops, part pieces, and a million other names…

They all do the same thing though: provide hair addition options with greater coverage for the crown of the head.

I work with several brands because every company has different textures/density/sizing options and with a piece like this it’s important to get a great match.

Below is a photo showing an example piece, this one is by Tress Couture through Hotheads. My distributor for my area is Twin State, but that may vary based on your location.

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Here’s some cool ways to use pieces like these:

-create instant bangs/fringe on clients not looking to commit to the cut

-provide thickness on thinning hair with visible scalp

-upgrade hair extension applications on short hair clients to better hide transition lines

-great for clients with unruly short or curly hair along the part line to provide a humidity resistant option

-great for clients who have an extreme color difference between their natural hair and their colored hair to hide roots between visits

-can be used to provide volume and/or length for updos on clients with fine or short hair

-can be used for creative color styles to create dramatic color shifts without hair color/lightener damage

-and probably a ton of other things I haven’t thought of yet

 

These pieces can be incredibly useful for clients and stylists to create dream hair for everyone.

You Can’t Always Get What You Want: Corrective Color & Fantasy Tones

Dear colorists,

We like to picture ourselves as miracle workers. We like to keep the curtain closed between us and clients. We like to show off insane before and after combinations.

We shouldn’t just post our before and after shots. We don’t have to put formula notes on it, but we can to help other colorists. But the biggest disservice we’re doing by posting just a before and after shot is letting clients maintain unrealistic goals.

We should be posting more information. We should be posting how long it took to get that result. We should be posting when we have inconsistent toning issues based on clients hair porosity. We should be posting pictures of clients whose hair won’t do what we expect it to because of pre-existing hair dye.

When the only pictures clients see our pictures of success with no understanding of what it took to get there or the possibility for it not getting to the end result they desire all we are doing is making it more difficult for ourselves when clients come in with expectations of hair coloring changes that cannot be done.

I will relay a few examples of client difficulties…

I once had a client with box black hair dye on her hair grown out approximately six to eight months who brought in a before-and-after photo from someone’s Instagram account showing their black hair and then a pastel lavender shade as their after. I tried to explain to the client that this is simply not something that could be done in one session. I tried to explain to the client that this is something that may take multiple sessions, multiple passes with different colors, a lot of deep conditioning, and a lot of time. The client refused to take no for an answer and insisted that I make a solid attempt to get her that color that day. I have a special form that I make clients like that sign. It tells them that there is no guarantee of pricing nor is there any guarantee of any results or quality of hair. Most of the time this form scares clients out of their demands. Sometimes it doesn’t. In this case the girl continued to insist. 12 hours later she was blonde, not lavender, I could not remove enough gold, and despite using large amounts of olaplex in every pass through her hair was still fried. I posted this before and afters on my Instagram account years ago when this occurred. I did end up removing them based on the negative commentary about my lack of skill due to the obvious damaged texture of her hair. I regret removing the photos. And if that situation ever occurs again I will post with an explanation. I later took a closer look and realized that the before-and-after were taken 6 months apart with the stylist having actually posted pictures from each of the other sessions as well.

Another example, an amazing colorist that I work with on a regular basis recently had a client come in with incredibly dark dye on her ends and approximately three inches of regrowth. The client claimed she had not colored her hair in years, but lines of demarcation don’t lie. She wanted all of her hair to be a lighter color. Typically the level of dye on her end would have been unlikely to be problematic, but this wasn’t color, it was henna. It was explained to the client that no amount of lightener or pigment remover available in salon were capable of removing henna. The client did not believe the colorist, and she refused to admit to having dyed her hair more recently. Working off the information we had we did the best that we could. The colorist used multiple formulas and multiple color removers to try to break through the henna stain on the lengths of her hair. It was unsuccessful. Her ends did lighten slightly but not to the client’s desired end result. Her regrowth did lighten further, but in order to maintain blending additional color was applied to prevent “hot roots.” At the time we thought the client was pleased, as the colorist really had done everything in her power to warn the client and then to do the service and then to maintain an even result. The colorist even felt bad about not being able to get to the desired result and provided the client a discount on their service. The client then went home and wrote a Yelp review against us. Next time a similar situation occurs we’ll probably just turn them down.

They say that a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing, and they are right.

Clients, now more than ever, can go online or on various social media and instantly find pictures of what they want to do. These clients not having any cosmetology backgrounds training and colorists not posting information on the difficulty of achieving those results continues to lead to misinformation, upset colorists, and upset clients.

So please, continue to tell your clients what can and can’t be done, and when you post particularly avant-garde photos be sure to tell people how much work it really was.

Always Double Check

Recently I’ve been using a lot of different brands of hair extensions and there had been a quality control issue with one company where the pieces were not as thick as they should be.

Because I work with so many companies and they all have slightly different sizing it was not something I immediately noticed.

Since this incident I’ve been taking photos of individual hair pieces when they come in so I can keep accurate comparisons instead of relying solely on memory.

Here’s a photo of how thick a piece from this company should have been (the darker piece) and a piece from the batch with a quality issue (blonde). While they may not seem noticeably different from an individual scale, the difference becomes exponentially more noticeable once you’re dealing with quantities of 100 to 200 to 300 pieces per head.

I’m working on getting better myself about checking every thought that comes in more thoroughly, and because these things happen occasionally I recommend other hair extension specialists do the same.