Toners, Fillers, and Fantasy Applications

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This is by far my favorite color theory visual I’ve ever worked with.

 

Color theory is often undervalued for coloring services but it comes into play heavily when working on corrective color applications, and even more so when working with fantasy applications.

 

Hairstylists have a pretty easy time explaining to clients the colors used to cancel out undesired undertones, and explaining the benefits of filler for preventing “hollow” colors. It’s harder to explain to clients that they can’t have lavender hair unless it can be made white first or else they’ll just have pastel brown.

 

Colors directly opposite of one another on the color wheel cancel each other out and create shades of brown (shown on the side of the chart). This information can be used to tone hair, or to accentuate tones.

 

The side labeled fillers consists of colors that exist as natural undertones when prelightening hair. If hair is lightened and needs to be dyed a natural shade that is darker then this pigment will need to be refilled first.

 

The side labeled toners is typically used to cancel out underlying pigment after hair is lightened. Green for red, blue for copper, violet for gold.

 

When doing fantasy color applications it’s important to keep this information in mind so you can get the results you’re looking for. Good luck everyone!

Some Notes on Wedding Hair

So it’s wedding season once again!

Don’t let wedding stress happen to you!

For hairstylists and brides alike this can be a stressful time so I’ve put together a list of things that can make all those hair interactions a little less crazed.

 

~8-12 weeks before the wedding: find a stylist and book the wedding date, your trial, possibly 2 trials, and map out color appointments and trims.

~4-6 weeks before the wedding: have your trial (with tiara, pins, veil, etc) and take final reference photos, make sure you have confirmed timing and number of people for services on day of.

~2-3 weeks before the wedding: do your color (if you normally color your hair) so that it has a little room to settle before the wedding, do your last trim before the wedding. Do NOT experiment with new color or cut this close to the wedding!

 

A few other notes:

-you want to look like yourself in photos, if you normally wear your hair a certain way use it as inspiration for your wedding hair, if you never wear it up in even a ponytail then maybe you don’t really want it all up for your wedding

-your hairstylist is likely to make more money at the salon than at your wedding so unless you’ve got the world’s biggest bridal party please bear in mind they are missing an entire 8 hour day to do 3 hours with you, often plus travel expenses, we love what we do, but please don’t assume tip is included in your total unless specifically stated

-typically it’s best for the bride to get her hair done second to last, you want to spend the morning “relaxing” as much as possible so make everyone else go first

-EXCEPT mother of the bride should be last, or in some cases the soon to be mother in law, these are people you want available to help run errands and be bullies to get things fixed, if they’re in a chair or already have their hair done they won’t be able to run around as much

What Every Hairstylist REALLY Wishes You Knew

The number one thing we all wish our clients understood is that we work on commission.

This means there is no hourly fee. We make only a percentage of the service charges. We make nothing for the time spent between clients, or when someone shows up late, or not at all, or cancels at the last minute.

Our prices reflect the time and products necessary to take care of you that day, as well as the time and money we’ve spent getting to our level of expertise, and marketing expenses to fill our chairs.

What this means for you as a client:
-No, we can’t do this service for less money with the same result. The quality will suffer if we have to sacrifice time or products.
-No, we don’t “live” on tips like servers do, but…
-Yes, tips do make up a large portion of the income we make.

Please respect our time and financial needs so we can take care of your hair the way we both want to.

Hotheads Hair Extensions, Makeover

I do hair extensions day in and day out, and I always love what I do, but sometimes I get a client in my chair who’s transformation still blows me away.

This client is a cancer survivor. Her hair had finally started to grow back in and she was visiting someone in California where she went to get her first ever set of hair extensions. They stylist ordered no where near enough hair, and then proceeded to remove much of the length from the hair, and then began cutting into her natural hair in an effort to blend in the additions.

We went through and removed all of her existing hair extensions, colored her hair to a more even base color, and then reapplied a very full head of Hotheads tape in hair extensions that we ordered just for her.

The end result is that you can’t even tell she has extensions! She was really happy with the end look and that made me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. This is why I do what I do.

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Building Systems, Tips Four and Five

4– Have a no book list.

–Help your front desk learn how you want these clients addressed. There are clients you should stop doing. Create a plan for removing them from your schedule. Create a plan for recognizing “time suck” clients who you cannot please but for some reason keep coming back. You’ll feel better, and your days will run more smoothly and with fewer unforeseen delays.

5– Build a trust with your shampoo technicians and assistants.

–What can you do to teach them to do things the same way you do? If you can get them to follow the patterns you set then you won’t have as much work to do and you can take an extra client or two every day. That adds up.

Anyways, I hope that you guys can all get some of this rolling for yourselves, and spend some time building your own even bigger better systems for making yourself and your salons as efficient and awesome as possible.

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Building Systems, Tip Three

3– Have a standard consultation pattern.

—This sounds pretty easy, but it’s not. You know better than anyone else what kind of problems you’ve run into in the past from thinking you and your client were both on the same page, so pick your questions to help troubleshoot past experiences. Maybe you want to require a photo? Maybe you want to run down a checklist of current hair care? I don’t know. But whatever it is, you will save so much time by never skipping on of the questions on your list.

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Building Systems, Tip Two

2– Plan your pre-booking.

–As I’ve said in the last tip, I tell them when they should book their next appointment and what it should be for. I also remind them that they might not get the appointment they want if they aren’t pre-booking. It may seem like something simple and obvious, but you’d be surprised how much making this a standard part of your routine can change the flow of your schedule and client intake. When clients pre-book their regular appointments your schedule remains more consistent and you can better handle true emergencies and last minute requests.

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