Toners, Fillers, and Fantasy Applications

img_20130916_135418.jpg

This is by far my favorite color theory visual I’ve ever worked with.

 

Color theory is often undervalued for coloring services but it comes into play heavily when working on corrective color applications, and even more so when working with fantasy applications.

 

Hairstylists have a pretty easy time explaining to clients the colors used to cancel out undesired undertones, and explaining the benefits of filler for preventing “hollow” colors. It’s harder to explain to clients that they can’t have lavender hair unless it can be made white first or else they’ll just have pastel brown.

 

Colors directly opposite of one another on the color wheel cancel each other out and create shades of brown (shown on the side of the chart). This information can be used to tone hair, or to accentuate tones.

 

The side labeled fillers consists of colors that exist as natural undertones when prelightening hair. If hair is lightened and needs to be dyed a natural shade that is darker then this pigment will need to be refilled first.

 

The side labeled toners is typically used to cancel out underlying pigment after hair is lightened. Green for red, blue for copper, violet for gold.

 

When doing fantasy color applications it’s important to keep this information in mind so you can get the results you’re looking for. Good luck everyone!

Some Notes on Wedding Hair

So it’s wedding season once again!

Don’t let wedding stress happen to you!

For hairstylists and brides alike this can be a stressful time so I’ve put together a list of things that can make all those hair interactions a little less crazed.

 

~8-12 weeks before the wedding: find a stylist and book the wedding date, your trial, possibly 2 trials, and map out color appointments and trims.

~4-6 weeks before the wedding: have your trial (with tiara, pins, veil, etc) and take final reference photos, make sure you have confirmed timing and number of people for services on day of.

~2-3 weeks before the wedding: do your color (if you normally color your hair) so that it has a little room to settle before the wedding, do your last trim before the wedding. Do NOT experiment with new color or cut this close to the wedding!

 

A few other notes:

-you want to look like yourself in photos, if you normally wear your hair a certain way use it as inspiration for your wedding hair, if you never wear it up in even a ponytail then maybe you don’t really want it all up for your wedding

-your hairstylist is likely to make more money at the salon than at your wedding so unless you’ve got the world’s biggest bridal party please bear in mind they are missing an entire 8 hour day to do 3 hours with you, often plus travel expenses, we love what we do, but please don’t assume tip is included in your total unless specifically stated

-typically it’s best for the bride to get her hair done second to last, you want to spend the morning “relaxing” as much as possible so make everyone else go first

-EXCEPT mother of the bride should be last, or in some cases the soon to be mother in law, these are people you want available to help run errands and be bullies to get things fixed, if they’re in a chair or already have their hair done they won’t be able to run around as much

The Best of Both Worlds

Screen Shot 2016-03-31 at 2.17.30 PMI’m super excited to be posting about this, albeit a bit late. I’ve been crazy busy with classes (taking and teaching) and I just wanted to share this super cool flyer.

Most of the classes I do are intimate salon settings with just a handful of stylists at a time, every so often I get to do really awesome things like this. I love all the education work I do, but seeing my name and photo on a flyer really do something for my soul.

For this particular class I’m teamed up with Darian Gavin who is another awesome educator from the Twin State family. He works with hair extensions as well as being an educator for Brazilian Blowout.

We’re really excited to be doing this class and helping to spread some serious hair love.

Facial Scrubs for Body Scrubs

While I was at the New York International Beauty Show (#IBSNY2016 if you want to search the Instagram tags), I made several interesting purchases, along with things from my Sephora haul last month.

 

I’ve already got combination skin so I know that heavily moisturizing facial scrubs tend to trigger acne for me. Since I still wanted to try stuff out I decided I’d use them as body scrubs instead. This is actually one of my favorite uses when I buy or receive products that aren’t quite a perfect fit for me.

 

First up was Rebels Refinery Advanced Clear Skin Facial Scrub which was absolutely awesome and comes from a very cool company with the most amazing smelling Moisturizing Beard Oil that I’ve ever smelled. This scrub had a really nice gritty texture and made me feel super clean, but it’s definitely designed for men’s skin and to pair with a lighter moisturizer than what I use (and probably not use make-up with either). I did notice that my skin was super smooth, and when used as a body scrub all over I had no ingrown hair issues, razor burn, or even a need to use body lotion. For someone with dryer skin, or as a body scrub I rate this as one of the best I’ve used, but for my face it’s a waste.

 

Second I tried my luck with Ole Henriksen Walnut Complexion Scrub which had similar issues. Absolutely wonderful as a combination body scrub body wash but not really working for my face. Great texture, and decent lather when mixed with water, nice smell.

ole-henriksen-walnut-complexion-scrub-50-ml-1-7-fl-oz-full-size-brand-new-975ee7ca9196230ac64e080495813622

Hopefully the next set of things I get my hands on prove to be a better fit for my skin type as we approach warmer weather again. Get stoked!

 

Got any recommendations you think I should check out? Leave them in the comments section and I’ll be sure to take a look.

Not Always a Win

Not everything I buy to try is a product I’m destined to love forever.

Screen Shot 2016-03-15 at 9.43.06 PM

Recently, in my Sephora haul, I purchased Glam Glow Super Mud to try. My good friend and former assistant, Vanessa who works at the Springfield Town Center Sephora location, assured me I would love it. While I acknowledge it is a beauty junkie favorite, and it did great things for my skin, I just can’t get past the scent.

 

It contains several herbal extracts, like licorice, which give it a distinct smell that ends up being extremely reminiscent of Jagermeister. I just can’t handle it.

 

This is a bit of a loss because my skin does feel incredibly refreshed and clean. The goal of using it tonight was to make up for three days of chain-smoking in my car traveling to teach hair extension classes out of town. It worked amazingly so I’m disappointed a bit, but I’m planning on gifting it to a current staff member who really enjoys Jager.

Cold Weather Hair Tips

woman-wearing-winter-hat-snowThe weather changes with each season, why would you expect the same routine to work year round? You may need to add, remove, or completely change the products and tools you use. Here’s some points to get you started:

Use More Leave-Ins

The weather is harsh and the cold can be detrimental by hiding how humid or dry the air is. Trust me, you need the extra love, especially if you’re blowdrying more often to avoid leaving with wet hair.

Use Softer Hold Products

Gels and mouses that hold firmly will dry feeling too stiff in cold weather, so go for a lighter hold when choosing products for fall and winter months. You can always tease or add a finishing spray.

Be Wary of Protein Heavy Products

Yes, usually it’s thought of as a good thing, but it may not be necessary to add extra proteins to the hair. Normally a product that is protein rich will protect damaged hair, but if there is no damage they can build-up and may make hair dull and brittle. Avoid these unless your hair is actually damaged. Cold weather is not forgiving to brittle hair.

Use More Conditioner

Get into the routine of using extra conditioner to counteract damaging cold weather. Simple. Use more, rinse thoroughly.

Seal With Oil or Silicone

Jojoba and almond oils will add shine, and coconut oil and shea butter are perfect for coarser hair types. Silicone also works well as a moisture barrier to keep your hair soft.

Seasonal Makeover, Autumn 2013, Part 2

20130825_13160920130825_15405120130825_154040

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For this client we wanted to do something a bit more subtle. With a family wedding just a few weeks away we wanted something that would feel brighter and richer without being so different that roots would be visible in pictures from the event.

We started by taking a look at her natural hair. She had no coloring services on her hair so we used the sun lightened ends of her hair as our target colors for her highlights. Her hair tends to take on a golden/cinnamon color so we applied a slightly redder tone on the highlights throughout the sides and a more golden toned color for the highlights through the crown area.

The color result was augmented by slight changes to her hair cut as well. By adding more layers, especially at the front, we were able freshen the layers framing her face and show off our new color better.

The only styling product used on her hair was “It’s a 10” leave-in conditioner. Her hair was blowdried out with a round brush and then touched up with a flat iron for

additional smoothing and control shaping.

Hope this was a fun inspiration for some of you to show that makeovers don’t have to be big to fun. Enjoy the weather!

Notes On Hair Loss and Shedding

hairloss forums newsClients come in for hair extensions for all sorts of reasons, but one of the most common requests for hair extensions is as a result of recently increased shedding of the clients own hair and the desire to immediately thicken it back up. The following is a quick list of some common temporary hair loss triggers and whether or not they tend to be compatible with the addition of hair extensions.

 

~~ Certain prescription medicines can increase hair loss and susceptibility to shedding. These include, but are by no means limited to: blood thinners, vitamin A supplements, some arthritis medications, antidepressants, gout medications, medications for certain heart problems, blood pressure medications, and birth control pills. If a medication is causing your hair loss, your doctor may be able to prescribe an alternative medication.

— For hair extensions it is important to know if the medicine causes the loss is a temporary medication or not, so that extensions are not attached while the hair is still shedding. It’s prohibitively expensive to purchase a hair extension service, have them continue to fall out, and have to keep replacing them. If you’re only on it for a little while, wait until you’re off it. If it is a long term medication and it cannot be switched to anything else, wait until you’ve reached a kind of equilibrium level, and pay close attention to maintenance schedules with your hair extension specialist to prevent weakening already sensitive hair.

 

~~ If you had major surgery and experienced excessive hair loss anywhere from one week to about three months later (depending upon metabolism), the anesthesia combined with the surgery itself may be to blame for your hair falling out. General anesthesia and major surgery are some intense physical stress, which can mess with the growing phases of the hairs on your head, and cause excessive hair shedding that shows up later. Hair loss related to major surgery, however, is temporary, and your hair will grow back over time.

— For hair extensions with this type of loss, all you have to do is wait it out, usually the shedding takes place all in about a two week span, so go in for a consultation as soon as you notice so the hair extension specialist can have everything prepped for you when your hair reaches balance. Usually by the time your set grows out your real hair is thickened up enough to not require extensions. (Of course, you may get used to the look and ease of your new chosen hair.)

— I actually recently experienced this type of hair loss after having my tonsils out. Unfortunately I had gotten my hair extensions put in about a month prior to my unexpected surgery and I shed quite a bit of my hair extensions since they were attached to my real hair. If you are a current hair extensions wearer and have an upcoming surgery, try to plan your maintenance and replacement visits around your surgery to accommodate a waiting period after surgery before replacing extensions.

 

~~ Diet and exercise! When you dramatically reduce calorie intake, or increase calorie usage via exercise you might not be getting all the vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients that your body needs. This can cause your hair to fall out. Since hair is made of keratin protein, not enough protein in your diet can be detrimental to your hair after only about two to three months of a protein-deficient diet. Very strict weight-loss diets or exercise plans can also cause noticeable hair loss, which commonly occurs about three months after losing 15 pounds or more of body weight.

— When looking to get hair extensions related to this type of hair loss and shedding I typically recommend wearing a clip-in option until the client has reached their goal weight. Otherwise they are just paying for hair that they are going to keep shedding. One they’ve reached their goal weight, or adjusted to a less strict regimen for maintenance, any type of hair extension becomes an option. Over time all their shed hair should come back if they stay balanced so the hair extensions should not need to be a permanent option unless the client maintains fitness competition levels of body fat.

Don’t Try This At Home

mulan cuts hairI see it all the time: clients who “trim” their own hair between salon appointments.

It seems like it wouldn’t be a big deal, it’s just one piece out of place. Did that one piece really grow faster though? No. It’s likely to be just parted differently, or curled more/less than usual. Cutting that one piece can cause gap spots in your layers.

“My bangs just grow so fast.” Yes, I know. I offer complimentary bang trims for my clients because of this. It’s right in front of your face so you see it grow more noticeably. The issue with trimming bangs yourself is that quite often you move your forehead to look up while you cut, this changes where they lay and results in bangs being shorter or more uneven than anticipated.

The beautiful bob Mulan gets from swording her hair off is an unrealistic expectation, yet clients frequently value their own skills over those of a licensed Cosmetologist. Please, for the love of hair, DON’T TRY THIS AT HOME!

Is Eye Shadow Primer Worth It?

lThe short answer? Yes, it is!

 The long answer? Definitely yes. Primer allows colored eyeshadows to really pop without having to layer on (read: waste) tons of product. It usually goes on smoother and stays on better as a result. End result? Totally worth it.

If you want you insanely too bright, covers way too much to be reasonable, really red eye shadow to stay bright over an extended photo shoot then you definitely need primer. (I’m allowed to say this is crazy, it’s my own work.)

Primer prevents darkness under eyes or on eyelids from interfering with the pigment of the eye shadow. This can be enough of a benefit on it’s own, but it gets better. Some companies are starting to work on eye shadow primers with ingredients that work like eye creams and actually make your skin healthier. Fantastic! Minimizes my routine and I love it.